GOLF: Hit Your Irons Dead Straight

Hit Your Irons Dead Straight

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In this video, I’m going to show you a practice station we use to correct irons that go offline. This station should be used in addition to whatever you’re normally doing as your block mechanical practice. This is not going to be a one size fits all to fix every single swing flaw. The idea is as you’re working on whatever you need to do to hit the ball better, making your swing better and you would add this in addition to that.

I have a box that golf clubs came in on the ground. You can use any sort of box like this that has an edge to it that’s straight up and down. I have this box that’s tall enough (which I forgot to mention before) maybe six inches or so, so that if during your downswing come too far over the top, you’ll hit the box. And If you come too far inside out during your downswing, you’ll hit the box.

In addition to the box, I have a start line stick. I use a stick from a local hardware store which is taller than normal. I don’t like to use the normal sticks because they’re not quite tall enough for me to get as much of the feedback. You can grab two a normal alignment and just tape them together and put them in the ground as well.

I have the golf ball setup where it’s pretty similar to the TWO DRILLS TO QUICK FIX A SHANK that we did. The purpose of the box is for swing path. I put the ball in the middle of the box. The idea here is if you can get the club coming from inside the box, hit the ball, kind of working back in. It’ll keep your pretty neutral.

So when we’re talking pushes and pulls, we have two main factors. We have a club path that is either too far inside out, or too far outside in. That’s the first thing that controls the direction. The other part that controls direction is club face and that’s why we have the stick.

If I’m someone that hits pushes, I pick a target in the distance and line the box up where it is parallel to it. I put the stick on the right edge so I’m going to have to hit the ball to the left of it. If I’m someone who hits pulls and fades, this will be a little bit different. I would keep the box in the same place, but I would change the stick.

If I play a fade, I need to start the ball to the left. So, if I’m going to just play my fade, I’m going to move the stick a little bit left of the target and I’m going to adjust my box. I’m going to pick a start line out in the distance, just a little bit left maybe five yards left. This is going to help me to not over fade it. I’m going to just think about squaring the face. If I need to I’ll add a little supination, making sure the ball starts left of the stick and allowing it to fade back.

Now for a pull, I’m going to put the stick back to neutral. I want to get the ball starting to the right of the target line. The box is still going to be fairly straight and I’m going to now focus on hitting the ball to the right of that.

If you are someone who hits a hook you have a ball that curves left, but you struggle with making the ball start to the right enough. This would be essentially the same pattern here as the person who hits the pull. I’d get the stick lined up where I need to start the ball, 15, 20, 30 feet to the right and I’d allow this box to be a little bit more angled to the right.

Set the station up based on your ball pattern.The whole point of this really is to tighten your dispersion pattern. If you want to hit the ball closer to the hole, there are two parts, start line and curve. Get the start line piece first. Work the curve off of that.


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